Sandi and Lewis' ride across Canada

Day 36-Terrace Bay Nipigon to Terrace Bay, Ontario Distance: 108km Temp: cold! Today’s ride finally delivered on the promise of the hills-we climbed 1030 meters today; the hills ranged in distance from 2 to 5 km, but there was one section after lunch, and on the last 40 km that was on a more or less incline for approximately 12 km-it just kept going and going-legs were heavily objecting by the end of it. To compensate for the challenging terrain, the scenery was pretty spectacular as the hills seemingly lifted us into the clouds, and had us at such heights that we had incredible views of Lake Superior and the surrounding areas-this is definitely postcard country. Of late my bike has started to make very curious noises; I took it into to see Bike Guru in Thunder Bay, and had my bottom bracket changed, however the groaning noises have stopped but now it’s squeaking. As there were often no other noises to hear beside the wind in our ears, and the squeak of my bike, the mind starts to do o...

Day 35-Nipigon Thunder Bay, to Nipigon Distance: 109 km Temp: 27 degrees We kept hearing from people about how bad the hills were; we were warned by the organizer, as well as by all kinds of people along the way About The Hills. We all worked ourselves into a frenzy about today’s ride, which as it went along, only delivered little ‘hilletts’-nothing too substantial. We kept thinking that perhaps the worst of them were saved until the end-but nothing that was worth the hype and hooplah. I thought that maybe we had ridden such monsters over the course so far, that we had become un-fazable, so fit that monstrous hills no longer had any affect-surely not possible. Anyhow, we all remained suspicious as although the terrain was certainly challenging, it in no way presented us with the hardship that was promised (although Hedwig certainly had a good go, as we had strong winds for most of the day.) Since we had all slept so poorly in residence at Lakehead (due to the heat) we were all tired an...

Day 33, 34-Thunder Bay Quetico to Thunder Bay, Ontario Distance: 174 km Hot then rainy Well, wouldn’t you know it, the Button Pusher (BP) and I got into a huge row in the parking low at Kakabaka Falls; without going into too much detail, all there is to tell is that I am all that is logical and reasonable and he has the logical reasoning of a teenaged stubborn donkey. I tried to begin the conversation like an adult, inviting him to discuss a matter that needed attention. He refused any such engagement and immediately went into the equivalent of sticking his fingers in his ears and saying, “lu lu luluuuu, I can’t hear you,”. I attempted to engage him again in adult dialogue which he again met with the same type response. At this point I lost any cool I had left and regrettably made it personal by asking him if it was any wonder that no one liked him on the tour. It got ugly from then on in, and I am embarrassed to say we caused quite the scene. Since we were engaged in battle at a popu...

Day 32-Quetico Provincial Park Taylor’s Cove, to Quetico, Ontario Distance: 154 km 40 degrees measured on the road We have all, since starting this tour, become quite adept at ‘cyclist tracking’; how far ahead the others are, how long ago they passed a certain point, and the like. Naturally one needs clues in order to be able to ascertain this information, and in this case the telltale signs are fruit skins, specifically spent bananas. Often riders will eat the fruit while still on the bike, and throw the peels onto the road; judging by the shade of the brown on the skin, and the general hydration of the skin, we can judge their position, and adjust our speed accordingly-I am starting to feel like a Great Cyclist Hunter. I am not sure where these skills will take me once the tour is over, but for now, it has been of some use. The ride today was a toughie, as the terrain was very hilly; as soon as we climbed one hill, there lay another one in wait, taunting us. According to someone’s al...

Day 31-Taylor’s Cove Caliper Lake to Taylor’s Cove, Ontario Distance: 128 km 28 degrees We’re staying on a private campground tonight which has definite advantages, and some disadvantages; on the plus side we do not have to contend with the masses who have packed all their earthly belongings including the dog and cat (yes, cat) into their roving home, and then disgorged its contents for all to see, cat included. There are very few others around; giving the place the kind of solitude that one often wants when in the Great Outdoors. We’re camping beside a lake, which except for the odd motor boat, is quite quiet. I got to chattin’ with a ruddy, red swollen faced guy at the camp store who is here from the States for a three day fishing competition; turns out he is a professional fisherman and travels all over Canada, US, and Mexico from competition to competition. He says he hunts in the winter. I didn’t know that people like him still exist. He was complaining about having been on the wa...

Day 30-Caliper Lake Kenora, to Caliper Lake Distance: 127 km Hot It rained on and off throughout the night last night; there is something comforting about sleeping in a dry (hopefully) tent while it’s wet outside. Lewis and I did a cycling trip in Newfoundland a couple of years back and experienced torrential downpours; unfortunately our tent then wasn’t up to the challenge, and I ended up spending the night akin to what I imagined Chinese water torture to be like; with a constant drip on my forehead. Luckily the rain let up by the time we set out in the morning, and we cycled for most of the day under cloud cover, but by the end of the ride the temperature was measured at 36 degrees, making it an intense ride. It’s also strange to be in Ontario now, with its very typical Canadian Shield terrain-even though I have never been here; it seems all very familiar with the rocky, sandy, treed terrain with many lakes - it’s very much like the Muskokas north of Toronto. Also immediately noticea...

Day 28-Rest day Beasojour to Kenora, Ontario! Home Province Distance: 172 km Hot then thunder showers later on The past couple of days have been tough rides (I think I always say that, but its all true, each one offers its own unique challenge.) Day 27’s ride was pretty flat, but unfortunately Head and cousin SideWig decided to accompany us for the ride, turning what would ordinarily be a relatively easy ride, into a challenging one. We started off the ride on some very rough road (for the better part of 60km or so) and had us riding beside all kinds of fields of wheat and sunflowers. Also accompanying us were aphids, tiny, almost invisible buggy-things that flew nonstop into our faces, up our noses, and into our ears. We couldn’t see them, so I thought I was imagining them; but luckily their existence was confirmed when talking to the other riders who experienced the same thing. Bees are also very enthusiastic travel companions, (unwelcome) as they seem to love to zoom back and forth ...

Day 27 Portage La Prairie to Beausejour, Manitoba Distance: 164 km Hot, with side/headwind Today, another near mental breakdown, this time thanks to Lewis leaving his saddle pack partly unzipped. It was a tough ride, owing partly to the long week we’ve had so far, partly to the endless sameness of the scenery, partly to the length of the ride, partly due to the uncooperative ‘Wig’ family, partly to Lewis being drained and not having any energy in his legs, and not being able to do as much pulling as usual, and partly to my mind still grasping the vastness of the country, and how many more miles we had to do. So much background, such a simple catalyst; he didn’t zip the saddle bag so as he road along on a bumpy road, the top of the bag bounced with every bump, momentarily opening to reveal a bouncing banana being flung around inside the bag. It looked like a big gaping mouth opening and shutting; somehow it struck me as weave-all-over-the road, almost into oncoming traffic, crying squea...

Day 26 Minnedosa, to Portage La Prairie, Manitoba Distance: 134km Hot, with side/tailwind Since we paid our dues yesterday, the winds were kind to us today, thankfully giving us a tailwind. Last night however, the winds railed and screamed outside our little tent; at one point I thought we might become airborne. At least the tent was well aerated, which was much needed. Again, Lewis and I were last to leave camp this morning, even after the galley crew; I got up late and made it just in the nick of time for breakfast, just as the galley crew were shutting the kitchen down. Thankfully due to Tailwig, we were able to make up time and got into camp at a very respectable time today. We’re staying in a little town in the fairgrounds, which is currently hosting a horse-riding camp; it is quite strange to be camping with horses galloping around, very near by. I think it has crossed all of our minds to trade in our bikes for a horse, especially after yesterday’s ride. Today’s ride took us alon...

Day 25 Binscarth Sask, to Minnedosa, Manitoba Distance: 138 Windy from the south east at estimated 30-gusting to 40 km/hour Our driver is complaining that her arms hurt from trying to stabilize the truck on the blustery road, so you can imagine how our legs feel. I think for many people today was one of the toughest rides of the tour so far, thanks to our reliable companion Hedwig and his second cousin SideWig. Both joined forces today and lashed us with relentless and persistent winds that railed against our ears and battered us about the road, making riding in a group perilous at times. On days like this I will try every mental distraction to keep me from looking at my slow moving odometer; the kilometers just would not come. When I kept forgetting that I was trying not to look, and my eyes wandered down to my ‘dashboard’, I felt like screaming, as we had barely moved. Usually after dinner our group will sit around the ‘living room’ and chat, but this evening we all look like extras ...

Day 21, 22 Craik to Regina Distance: 131 km Temp: Hot This was our last ride day until our rest day, so we were all anxious to get it down so we could get on with the serious business of R and R. The button-pusher/friend in our galley crew was booking a stay in a motel in Regina, so Lewis and I jumped at the idea, thinking that we well deserved a stay indoors, on a soft bed, with a clean shower that didn’t come with winking crawly things that rappel down the wall. Luckily Tailwig decided to join us on our ride, making it a more expeditious journey than if his cousin Hedwig had been keeping us company; although it was still long enough to frustrate some (in this coming week we will be doing 903 km before our next rest day, with a daily average of 151 km whereas this week it was 138 km daily average.) Anyhow, we eventually reached Regina. If not a native of Regina, one cannot help but feel like you’re saying a naughty word every time you say it; numerous jokes have been made around camp,...

Day 20 Outlook to Craik, Saskatchewan Distance: 125km Temp: Rainy in the morning and hot afternoon Since we were on galley duty breakfast this morning we were last to leave (today being a genuine excuse for leaving late.) Due to our hammer-fest yesterday, our legs begged for mercy; we had no other choice this time but to defer. I was feeling pretty good, but Lewis had had the biscuit and was feeling somewhat meditative and wanted to ride alone. I rode with a guy who had been riding with us for quite a while in the Rockies; he is on our galley duty, and was the one with whom I had a falling out over regarding the galley duty. We had both been sulking and playing the ‘silent treatment’ game, but had hashed it our and made up this morning. Nothing like being on a trip where your physical and mental boundaries are pushed passed their known limits to bring about emotional outbursts, and resolution. I don’t think therapy would be as successful as this-but who else would subject themselves t...

Day 19 Kindersley to Outlook Distance: 154 km Temp: measured 40 degrees on the road Amazingly my legs were on deck today, and ready for action. I hauled them into my office last night (my tent) and gave them a good talking to. Some harsh words were exchanged and they threatened to call the union, but we were able to come to an amenable agreement. Luckily Lewis’ legs were also in the mood for some fun; so we hammered it for most of the day, coming into camp second! (He left way before us, and we caught all the other early riser and early leavers.) The weather was hot and dry, becoming quite oppressive at times, but the roads were generally flat and fast moving, except for most of the morning where we had our trusty sidekick the headwind, now come to be known affectionately as ‘Hedwig.’ Hedwig; our reliable companion who is at our heads more than we’d care to think about and at our tails not nearly enough. I am way more fond his Hedwig’s cousin, Tailwig, who sometimes drops by for a visi...

Day 18 Youngstown to Kindersley Distance: 153km Temp: Mild Sometimes the kilometers tick by effortlessly, with hardly any notice at all. Other times they drag by painfully slowly; today was one of those days. Lewis and I were on the same page energy-wise when we started off this morning, and couldn’t seem to rev the engines-the first 50 kilometers just would not come, no matter what kind of mental distractions I could invent. I was wondering why my heart rate monitor doesn’t reflect the state of my legs; it doesn’t seem right that my heart rate says I am not working hard enough, and my legs tell me they have worked too hard, and cannot be convinced to go any faster. This is a major breakdown in communication between the pump and the pistons; I thought how unjust the situation was where I was told I was ‘under working’ yet could not increase my output. What to do but keep my bum in the saddle and press on. Again, the scenery is pretty monotonous, save for the road kill that decorates th...

Day 17 Drumheller to Youngstown Distance: 140 km Temp: Mild Youngstown: population 100 and decreasing; we’re sleeping in a community centre tonight, which is basically a basketball court/community hall/square dancing/ hall. It’s our first night ‘inside’ since the tour started, and some people have already got all cagey about being indoors, and are insisting on sleeping out. It turns out that it is TDC tradition, of many years back for the community of Youngstown to cook dinner for the riders. Apparently it started because there is no restaurant or facility in town to support feeding a large group, and when Bud the organizer called the town to enquire about accommodation and food, the person on the other end of the phone offered to host a potluck for all the riders, and hence the tradition started (over 10 years now.) I am completely incredulous that a bunch of people would get together and cook a huge meal for a group of complete strangers, but apparently this is the attitude of those ...

Day 15 to 16 Cochrane to Drumheller Distance: 176 km Temp: Mild Tough ride from Cochrane, not only because of the distance, but the scenery oddly enough was mentally draining. Although we are in the foothills and prairies, the land is still rolling and somewhat hilly; starting first thing in the morning. Again, my legs heavily objected to the expectation of work so early on in the morning. This time they took on the persona of two old Jewish ladies kvetching, moaning and crying about having to work so hard under such poor conditions. I had to agree with them. But there were no negotiations as it was a long riding day, and one cannot enter into any negotiations with the work force, otherwise you’re setting yourself up for further trouble. Although the landscape is repetitive is repetitive it still offers beauty; the vibrant yellow fields of the canola right beside the green wheat or barley fields is quite startling. It was sad to see the ghostly shadows of the Rockies slowly receding in...

Day 12 Golden to Field, BC Distance 89 km Temperature: hot Day 13 Field to Banff, Alberta Distance: 82 km Temperature-cooling down Day 14 Banff to Cochrane, Alberta Distance: 105 km Temp: cold this morning, hot later on Tough couple of days, hence the lack of blogging-lots of climbing over the past week, as we’ve been in the Rockies. Day 12 started with a tough 18 km climb, followed by a couple of descents, and then a continued climb up through Kicking Horse Pass. I love the names of some of these places-I can’t remember them now, but all conjure up images of violence, and animals (Kicking Horse Pass is named so because the first person (European) explorer was a doctor who discovered the area, but was kicked in the head by his horse, and went unconscious.) I guess he recovered, and hence the name. I thought maybe it was named so because climbing the pass made it feel like I’d been kicked in legs by a horse! We stopped along the way at Emerald Lake, and ‘Natural Bridge’ both amazing sit...

Day 10 Canyon Creek to Golden Monday July 3, 2006 Distance 116 km Temperature 36 degrees Today was another tough one; I thought I could be limited to only one psychological toughie per week, but says who? When we started the ride climbing this morning, I knew I was in for a killer ride, since my legs felt like two cement blocks attached to my body and did not want to cooperate with the day’s planned activities, which included a lot of climbing since we’re now in the mountains around Roger’s Pass. Try as I might, I could not get them to go; my energy was just not there, as my leg engines lay dormant-the past few days have included a lot of climbing (measured on someone’s altimeter between 900 and 1350 meters per day,) and my poor little legs haven’t had time to recover, so are quite sore. So when we set out this morning, they said, “You’ve got to be kidding me, we ‘aint doing this again, no way-leave us alone.” What to do when you’re setting out for a 115 km ride, mostly uphill into the...

Day 9 Pritchard to Canyon Creek Sunday July 2, 2006 Distance 128km Temperature 36 degrees “Mercury is in retrograde,” said my fellow TDC cyclist, looking at me expectedly, waiting for me to respond appropriately. I returned her gaze with a blank one, “What?” She said it again, perhaps thinking by repeating it I would understand the second time around, “Mercury is in retrograde,” she stated again. My brain furiously processed this bit of information, clicking through its memory bank trying to locate any semblance of understanding, much like Windows performs a search, with the little magnifying glass moving in circles, and then, “search results: search is complete, there are no matches for this criteria.” She may as well have said something like, “Uncle Jellyfish is a spoon-master.” “I have no idea what that means,” I said to her, not sure if I should feel foolish for not knowing what it meant when it was said in the same one would ask someone to pass the salt. “Oh, it means that on Tues...

Friday June 30, 2006 Day 7-Merritt to Pritchard Temperature: 34 degrees and 50 degrees measured en route Distance: 144 km Another hot one today, with a ride that included the dreaded and much talked-about within the group- 4km climb. There are two groups doing the Tour Du Canada this summer, and we’re traveling a day apart from each other, ours being the second group. Yesterday was a rest day, where the groups overlapped at the camp site in Merritt; the other group was talking about taking a short cut to Pritchard today that would essentially eliminate the 4 km climb, plus take 10km off the route, and remove going to Kamloops. Of course once our group caught wind of this conversation, people immediately jumped at the chance to skip the hill, as hills have taken on the persona of the bogey-man for many people (I’ll admit, myself included.) We have been regaled with stories of legendary hill climbs that we will come across during our trans-Canada ride; one woman from Newfoundland was so ...